| Building a great wardrobe means finding your own | | | | depends on the angle and length of the line. A |
| personal style. The most flattering wardrobe is | | | | shorter diagonal line will lead the eye from side to |
| comprised of clothing that flatters your body type, | | | | side, whereas a longer diagonal line will add to the |
| fits your lifestyle and is in your best colors. | | | | length illusion. |
| Begin by evaluating your body type. While dressed in | | | | Another component of successful wardrobe planning |
| your basic undergarments, stand in front of a full | | | | is to choose colors that are flattering to your skin |
| length mirror. Don't focus on the negatives (like, "I | | | | tone, hair and eye color. If you don't know (or are |
| wish my tummy/hips/thighs were thinner/more | | | | confused about) what "your" colors are, I |
| shapely/taller/wider/shorter"). You are only analyzing | | | | recommend finding a color consultant -- a person |
| your body type. There are four basic body types: | | | | who's been certified by one of the many color |
| - The Triangle (also called the "pear") : the bottom | | | | companies, such as Beauty for All Seasons. They'll |
| half is larger in proportion to the shoulder area. Often, | | | | hold a number of swatches of fabric in different |
| the hips are more than 10" larger than the waist, and | | | | colors near your face, match your hair, eyes and skin |
| the shoulders are narrow and sloping. | | | | tone. They then send the results off to a lab and |
| - The Inverted Triangle: is larger or broader in the | | | | you get back a palette of color swatches that will |
| shoulders, often with narrow hips or a flat derriere. | | | | flatter you. The color consultant should go over the |
| - The Hourglass: historically considered to be the | | | | results with you and give you advice about your |
| "ideal", this body type has balanced proportions -- the | | | | "best basics" and "best accent" colors. |
| bust and hips are about the same measurement and | | | | As a side note, if you find that what you thought |
| the waist is generally about 8"-10" smaller. | | | | was your favorite color isn't one of the most |
| - The Rectangle: is boxy in shape, the bust and hips | | | | flattering for you -- or it doesn't even show up in |
| are fairly proportionate but there is little or no waist | | | | your color palette, remember that you can wear any |
| definition. | | | | color ... just wear unflattering ones away from the |
| By the way, these body types hold true no matter | | | | face. |
| what weight you are. You should accept your shape, | | | | Now that you've identified your body type and know |
| whatever it is. No matter how much or how little you | | | | what colors are great on you, what do you do next? |
| weigh, your general body type characteristics will hold | | | | Review your closet for items that you already own, |
| true. Be honest but positive: Not, "I have huge hips" ... | | | | and that look great on you. Put aside an afternoon, |
| instead, "I have a tiny waist". | | | | put on some great music, turn off the telephone, and |
| There are flattering shapes for each body type - for | | | | get going. Pull everything out of your closet and |
| example, the pear shape is more flattered wearing | | | | group your clothes according to type (blouses, skirts, |
| flowing fabrics that skim the body (not cling!) than a | | | | pants, jackets). Now, pull out all your favorite outfits, |
| thick, stiff fabric. Someone with a rectangle shape will | | | | the ones that make you feel great and the ones |
| be more flattered wearing a straight sheath with a | | | | that you wear all the time. Put those in the "keep" |
| wide, cinched belt that gives the illusion of a waistline | | | | pile. Then, go through what's left and identify why |
| than they would if they wore a full skirt with gathers | | | | you might not like the item or might not wear it. Did |
| at the waist. For more definition of body types and | | | | you buy it on sale because it was inexpensive and |
| flattering styles, there are any number of books that | | | | you "had" to have it? Thought it might match that |
| have been published on the subject. Check your local | | | | great little skirt but it doesn't? Paid a great deal of |
| library, bookstore or the Internet. | | | | money for it and now feel guilty because you haven't |
| The line of a garment is important because lines | | | | worn it? Is it totally the wrong color, now that you |
| influence eye movements, establish shape and form | | | | know what your colors are? Let go of these items. |
| moods. Every garment presents three major sets of | | | | If you don't wear them now, you probably never will. |
| lines to the viewer's eye: body lines, silhouette lines | | | | Give them away to your sister, your friends or |
| and detail lines. Body lines are the basic body outline | | | | donate them to a charitable organization like Dress |
| (body type). Silhouette lines are the lines that the | | | | for Success. Finally, those items that are great but |
| garment creates -- a full skirt, long sleeves, etc. Detail | | | | are worn to the breaking point, put aside. If you |
| lines are the interior lines of a garment such as | | | | really love an article of clothing but can't replace it |
| pockets, lapels, seams, etc. Our eyes are conditioned | | | | because the silhouette isn't in style right now, |
| to move in the direction we read. If two lines are | | | | consider having a professional dressmaker copy it for |
| equal, our eyes will follow the horizontal, rather than | | | | you. It might be worth the price. |
| the vertical. Whatever line is dominant will be the line | | | | What you should have remaining are those items |
| our eyes will follow. A dominant line is any line that is | | | | that you love. Make a list of the holes in your |
| longer, wider, brighter or more often repeated than | | | | wardrobe, and keep that list with you, along with |
| another. If you are unsure what the dominant line in | | | | your new color swatches, when you go shopping |
| your article of clothing is, try the squint test. Look at | | | | (this helps curb impulse buying). When shopping to fill |
| the object. Look away. Squint and look quickly again | | | | the gaps in your wardrobe remember these tips: |
| at the object. The dominant line is the first thing you | | | | - Quality over quantity -- buy the best you can |
| see. | | | | afford. Better fabrics and better construction will feel |
| Vertical lines will make you appear taller and thinner -- | | | | better when you wear it and the clothing will last |
| they lead the eye up and down the body. Vertical | | | | longer. |
| lines can be stripes, seam lines, the edges of the | | | | - Each addition to your wardrobe should coordinate |
| jacket front, long sleeves, etc. Wide vertical lines | | | | with at least two other pieces you already own. If it |
| spaced equally around the body, however, will have | | | | doesn't, it should be a stand alone piece, like a dress. |
| the opposite effect -- they'll widen the silhouette | | | | - When you find a great piece like a classic blouse, |
| because the eye will go around you (think pinstripe | | | | try to buy it in more than one color. |
| suits ... flattering; large, 1" wide stripes ... not so | | | | - Select two "core" colors, and buy your basic pieces |
| flattering). | | | | like skirts, pants and jackets in those basics (i.e., black |
| Horizontal lines emphasize width. So, the obvious | | | | and white, navy and brown). |
| answer here is don't put a horizontal line where you | | | | - Select three accent colors and purchase blouses, |
| don't want to be widened. Wide hips? Make sure | | | | dresses and accessories in these colors. |
| your jacket or top ends just above or just below | | | | - Finally, only purchase one or two "trendy" pieces |
| your widest point. Narrow shoulders? Buy a blouse | | | | each season to keep your wardrobe fresh. |
| with a yoke (horizontal line) that will give the illusion | | | | Follow these tips and you'll have a "closet full of |
| of wider shoulders. | | | | clothes, with everything to wear! |
| Diagonal lines are modifying lines. That is, the effect | | | | |