| As a professional image consultant I always advise | | | | The man with this body type is very fortunate, |
| my male clients to be sure to dress to accentuate | | | | because he can wear all styles of suits, but he will |
| their attributes and downplay any challenging areas. A | | | | definitely need to wear a longer cut of jacket. You |
| lot of men have the impression that dressing for | | | | will look great in a 3-button single-breasted style |
| your body type only applies to women - but that's | | | | jacket. A double-breasted coat works on the tall |
| not true. | | | | man, too, because he can look good with the |
| Here are my answers to some recently asked | | | | horizontal lines of the buttons and front opening. |
| questions that will help any top level professional | | | | The Athletic Man |
| dress more powerfully for his particular body type | | | | Goal: With your exaggerated V-shaped frame, you |
| while following the perplexing button rule: | | | | have the desired ideal shape. Your shoulders are |
| Suit-Up with Power and Strong, Silent Messages | | | | broad but your waist is slim, creating an inverted |
| Many men in high-powered positions or aspiring | | | | triangle. |
| mid-level executives who want to get promoted to | | | | With this athletic build you will look best in |
| the C-suite need to understand the power messages | | | | single-breasted 2-button styles that will deemphasize |
| of the suit. Whether you are interviewing for a senior | | | | a bit of your shoulder width. You may also need to |
| level position or attending an evening philanthropic | | | | look for "athletic cut" suits that provide a larger drop, |
| event, chances are you need to be wearing a suit | | | | which is the difference between your chest |
| that commands authority. The suit is considered the | | | | measurement and your waist size. |
| professional corporate uniform, but today every man | | | | What's the button-rule? |
| needs a suit from time to time - to attend an | | | | There is a rule to buttoning a man's coat in order to |
| evening event, a wedding, a funeral, or to make an | | | | project sophistication and elegance. But it is amazing |
| appearance in court. But regardless of where or why | | | | to me to see sportscasters, TV reporters, and |
| you put on a suit, the key silent messages that the | | | | celebrities who don't follow this rule because not |
| suit conveys are power, sophistication, and elegance. | | | | doing so can sabotage their image immediately. |
| A Suit Style for Every Man's Physique | | | | Here is a quick history of how the button rule came |
| Every body type has its challenges and that is true | | | | into existence: |
| for men, just as it is for women. There are tall men, | | | | Back years ago King Edward VII became so heavy |
| short men, slender men, and heavy men. But if you | | | | that he was unable to button the bottom button of |
| dress correctly for your current body architecture | | | | his vest. His followers did not want to embarrass him |
| you can use the illusion of correctly chosen clothing | | | | by buttoning their last button, so they began to take |
| to look handsome and commanding. If you work with | | | | his lead and imitate his style - and that started a new |
| an image consultant, we will show you how to utilize | | | | fashion trend to leave the last button open. Today |
| the lines of suit design details to make you appear | | | | suits are designed to leave the bottom button open, |
| taller, thinner, or even heavier - if you happen to be | | | | and so are vests and sport coats. Here is a quick |
| a tall, slender fellow who needs to add some visual | | | | reference guide to when to button which button of |
| pounds. | | | | your jacket: |
| Below I have listed all styles of men's suits - and I've | | | | - On a single-breasted 2-button jacket - button the |
| also included the double-breasted style, because it is | | | | top button only. |
| a high fashion suit that goes in and out of fashion | | | | - On a single-breasted 3-button jacket - button the |
| from time to time. So here are the highlights of the | | | | top two buttons only, unless the suit lapels tend to |
| recommended styles of suits that work well with | | | | roll to the middle button. In that case you would not |
| different kinds of body types: | | | | button the top button because of how the lapel |
| The Heavy Man | | | | would lay against your torso. |
| Goal: With this body type, you want to create an | | | | - A trendy, single-breasted 4-button jacket is often |
| illusion of appearing taller and thinner. | | | | designed so that you wear all buttons closed or only |
| This man will want to wear vertical lines that draw | | | | the bottom button open. I always encourage my |
| the eye up and down his silhouette, but also attract | | | | clients to button the last button unless they see a |
| the eye away from the waist area. The best suits | | | | pull in the fabric around the 4th button. In that case |
| for this body type are single-breasted, 2-button | | | | you would leave it unbuttoned. |
| styles with a medium V stance. They provide | | | | Here's the button bottom line: Most jackets are |
| slimming lines by creating a longer V in the upper | | | | designed to leave the bottom button undone. So if |
| chest section. | | | | you button it then the fabric pulls and shows if you |
| Avoid: 3-button coats or jackets with short, rolled | | | | have a few extra pounds, which can undermine your |
| collars. They make you look shorter and heavier. | | | | great presence. We realize that when men gain |
| The Slender Man | | | | weight, you tend to put the pounds in your lower |
| Goal: The slender man needs to increase breadth | | | | midsection. So coats are made so that you have |
| across his shoulder and chest area to add some | | | | some ease for the coat to lay straight with no pulling |
| weight on his narrow frame. | | | | or tugging - as long as you don't use that bottom or |
| This physique will look best in single-breasted | | | | last button. |
| 2-button jackets. If you are on the shorter side, a | | | | I hope that regardless of your physique or title, you |
| 3-button jacket can give you some vertical lines to | | | | will find the right suit that fits you correctly and can |
| make you appear taller. You can also wear a | | | | emphasize your positive features. When you know |
| double-breasted suit with lapels that roll below the | | | | the rules of buttoning the coat, it appears that you |
| waist to elongate your torso and give you some | | | | are a sharp, well-dressed man who understands how |
| added fabric across the midsection. | | | | to get the most from his wardrobe. |
| Avoid: Pinstripe suits that can make you appear too | | | | Every man needs at least one modern suit in his |
| thin. | | | | wardrobe to wear when the situation calls for a |
| The Tall Man | | | | formal, sophisticated look. So next time you shop for |
| Goal: If you are over 6 feet tall you already have a | | | | suit, remember the importance that lines make in |
| tall, vertical frame, which means you can add some | | | | helping you create an illusion to appear more |
| horizontal lines. | | | | powerful, commanding, and elegant. |